Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling :: essays research papers

Only a Surfer Knows the FeelingThere is a guy from Hawaii that I know. Every day, he wakes up, straps his surfboards to the racks on take of his car, drives his car from a town c entirelyed Ewa, across the island of Oahu, to a little land known as Ala Moana Beach Park. He does on the whole of this even ahead the solarize comes up. He spends a few minutes just sounding at the ocean, watching and surveying the waves and how they break. As soon as the sun makes its first peek everyplace the horizon, he grabs a board, waxes it up, and jumps in the water. He then paddles his board through what many people call a move two hundred yards of dark coolness water, blistering currents, and waves button backwards against each stroke made to push forward. He makes this journey to get to a point right past where all the waves break, to a point called the line-up. Its here, where he waits for a wave that he catches back towards the shore, only to make the journey back through all the col d harsh currents and waves again. He catches a few waves, and then catches one all the way back to shore, where he showers, gets dressed and then goes off to work.He has one of the most stressful theorises I can think of. He is a counselor at one of the local shelters for teenage runaways. He deals with teen depression, suicidal tendencies, and coordinates bringing these kids back together with their families. And even though these tasks arent what most people would want to have to put up with in their lives, he does it every day. Furthermore, as stressful as his job seems to be, this man is one of the mellowest guys that I know. When asked why he does this morning ritual every day, he said, surfing helps keep me focused. And I take him. Think about it for a moment, each time a surfboarder goes to a beach, waxes up his board, and surveys the waves from the shore, he is preparing to go into the water to do something sooner amazing. This person is willing to test not only his limit s, but in any case the limits of what the ocean can do to him. He wants to battle the power of the entity that covers over seventy percent of the earth, manifested in the form of a wave, and ride it for all its worth.